Dessert First

After over a year of thesis writing, I decided to celebrate the end of my self-imposed solitary confinement with a trip to Italy – the land of sensuality, romance, and ecstatic worship of great food. Though I enjoyed many wonderful meals and sinful treats as I nibbled my way through Rome and Florence, I’ll begin the menu of essays about my adventures with the best part of the meal – dessert!

On crystal blue spring days it seems that everyone is lingering in the streets, licking sensually at the creamy cold confection – the Italians seem to have the market on lingering sensually over any number of yummy street foods!

The last two times I was in Italy I was sorely gelato deprived, so this trip I vowed to indulge at least once each day. I’m happy to report that I was successful in this endeavor! I avoided the chain shops and disappointing gelato experiences by watching for Armani-clad businessmen with fresh cones and choosing places where Italian was still the language of choice. This was easier done in Rome than in Florence – may have had something to do with the Italian to tourist ratio.

Gelato making is an art form in Italy and gelaterias often resemble galleries in homage to the frozen fantasy. Even a humble neighborhood shop makes great effort to elaborately garnish the sculpted colorful mounds with fruits, nuts, and candies. The serious artisanal shops are softly lit rich wood paneled rooms with marble floors and elaborate display cases of polished brass.

Of the seven gelaterias I visited, two of the top three were in Rome, including the one place that I became so enamored with that I returned at least three times (twice in one day!). Here are my three favorites:

Della Palma Gelato di Roma: (Via della Maddalena 20, Rome, Italy 00186 near the Pantheon - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNSv7MCLjdY ) I’m not the only person who thinks this is the best gelato in Rome, or anywhere else for that matter, but their success has not gone to their heads – though some of it has gone to my thighs! The selection and the quality are extraordinary. Aphrodisiac flavors abound here, which may explain the near-pornographic gelato-induced audio/visuals along the narrow streets surrounding the place! In the corner of the display case you will find about a dozen deep, dark chocolate flavors including my favorite one with pepperoncini (spicy red chiles). For those who prefer sorbetto, try fichi (figs with or without ricotta) or fruta di bosca (wild berries).

Gelateria Santa Trinita (Lungarno Guicciardini and Piazza Frescobaldi, Florence): The gelateria in Florence that was so highly recommended was a disappointment and many others were the Italian equivalent of Baskin-Robbins. So I wandered slightly off the beaten path on the “other side” of the Arno and found this chic little boutique serving hand crafted silky accessories of the sweet frozen variety to ultra-fashionable locals. I tried a Sicilian cassata gelato that was bejeweled with perfectly cut brunoise (for non-chefs, that’s very small cubes) of seemingly homemade candied fruits in the softest pastel colors embedded in velvety smooth ricotta-scented gelato. A scoop of that and one of pear gelato with a sexy swirl of grappa-soaked pear gelee made for a perfect early evening diversion.

(Sorry, can't remember the name, only the location... Rome, via Serpenti near Panisperna): This place is a small neighborhood place that serves a lot more locals than tourists. It’s off the beaten path in the ancient neighborhood that has been known for thousands of years as the Subura. It’s on one of the oldest streets in all of Rome and just a couple of blocks from the perfect little hotel I stayed in (Hotel Artorius - www.hotelartoriusrome.com). I don’t know if the gelateria is worth a detour, but I can say that if you are in the neighborhood, the gelato is wonderful and the staff is friendly, and there is a small piazza nearby with a fountain and some benches where you can admire the trendy Roman ragazzi while practicing licking and lingering like an Italian!

Refined Cuisine or Just Plain Cooking?

It's really been far too long since my last post. It's not that I haven't been writing... to the contrary, that's all I've been doing since the last post... I am in the absolute final stages of finishing my master's dissertation (a long 13 months). I've promised myself to get back to writing for pleasure as soon as possible (including "eat and tell" on www.eatsomethingsexy.com). The following is a little something I wrote for a newsletter.

Refined Cuisine or Just Plain Cooking?

The Culinary Historians of New York (CHNY) are a diverse group of food lovers, academics, historians, writers, and lovers of New York City. They have monthly get-togethers with recent themes ranging from The History of Junk Food (complete with hors d’oeuvres made from White Castle hamburgers and petits fours made from Twinkies) to The Story of Absinthe (including a tasting). I joined about 18 months ago and have enjoyed a number of fun and interesting events in that time. It has been especially interesting for me this past year since my research has been focused on the food history of New York City.

This past Wednesday evening, a friend and I attended a CHNY event at the new Astor Wine Center (a beautiful facility). The speaker was Rachel Laudan, a PhD in History and Philosophy who specializes in food history of particular cultures. In the lecture on Wednesday evening, Dr. Laudan discussed the differences between “refined cookery” and “plain fare.” This difference has played a role in civilized culture since the time of the ancient Greeks and continues at present in the form of “molecular gastronomy” versus “local, seasonal, organic” simple cuisine, or at the extreme, the “raw food” movement.

The extent to which food is handled, manipulated, or altered from its original state can be seen as the advancement of culture and civilization or as the corruption of nature. For centuries, popular food preparation methods have swayed back and forth between the two extremes – cooked versus raw, refined versus coarse, manipulated versus natural. Throughout history, highly manipulated, refined foods were the luxury of the aristocracy whereas coarse foods such as whole grains and undercooked vegetables belonged to peasants – how times have changed! Now, whole grains and organic foods are priced out of the reach of many whereas refined starches and sugars are the key ingredients in the foods of the modern-day poor. This change has its basis in the history of the twentieth century with the discovery of nutritional science, and more recently with the popularity of chefs such as Alice Waters who made fresh-from-the-farm a mantra for chefs around the world – who else in the prime of haute cuisine in the United States would have served a desert of a plain peach with only a fork and knife to up-scale diners and charge $10 for it? Today we have the luxury of choosing between the two extremes as frequently as we please. Simply look to two of NYC's most famous young chefs – the intricate, innovative genius of Wylie Dufresne (www.wd-50.com) and the simple brilliance of David Chang’s growing pork-infused empire (www.momofuku.com). Which side do you stand on?

Note: for more information on the Culinary Historians of New York, please visit www.culinaryhistoriansny.org

Heatwave!

Thought I'd share this while I recover with a refreshingly cold glass of Pepi Sauvignon Blanc (only $9.99 a bottle... great for a hot Wednesday evening!).

I was almost cooked "sous vide" tonight on my way home from work!

Myself and a train car full of Brooklynites were all but vacuum-sealed in our express (read: long time between stops) subway car when we realized the blessed AC was being substituted by full-blast heat. This was made more torturous by the subsequent breakdown on the Manhattan Bridge.

As we were suspended in our heat-sealed compartment over the roiling East River, I imagined how much this tough-skinned group of New Yorkers currently had in common with the tough cuts of meat that get cryogenically sealed before being submerged in gently boiling water.

Sous vide is a controversial process that yields the most succulent, tender end-product at the potential expense of the diner's health (at least according to its detractors). Was this some sort of cosmic cooking experiment… heat-sealing a group of Monday-weary New Yorkers and holding them in an external moist heat until they softened to tender bits of humanity?

Though the transformation may be desirable, it remains a bit more dangerous than the cooking technique. Nonetheless, I question whether the health department will be as concerned with "sous vide" subway riders as it is with banning sous vide cuisine.

The Fork: Objet d'Art, Vehicle of Sustenance and Symbolism

Wrote this for an assignment at school. The professor liked it, I hope you will too...


The Assignment:
Discuss the gastronomic relevance of one or more works of art (for example, symbolism, historical context, table setting).


Eating utensils are increasingly being appreciated as works of art in their own right. Table ornamentation has long been an artful exhibition of social class fueling the creative workings of designers and silversmiths around the world. The current exhibit at the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum in New York City, "Feeding Desire – Design and the Tools of the Table 1500 – 2005," features a visual, and occasionally tangible, journey through the history of dining. In addition to featuring specific utensils, plates, and glassware, the exhibit also includes historical data relating the recorded use and evolution of style differentiation of various utensils, as well as their depiction in period art. "For the last 500 years the designs of knives, forks, and spoons have provided beautiful and useful extensions of our arms, turning the act of eating into the experience of dining." (Quote from the opening placard of "Feeding Desire…" at the Cooper-Hewitt)

The Fork: Objet d'Art, Vehicle of Sustenance and Symbolism
Recorded use of the fork dates back to the nobles in the Byzantine Empire in the 11th century. However, it did not become accepted as a dining utensil in Europe (via Italy) until the 15th century when it joined the knife and spoon, not only as an eating utensil, but as an artfully rendered personal accessory wrought with symbolism. Because of the shape (the tines), the fork was frequently associated with the devil; because the fork was used predominantly by women, it became associated with courtesans, provoking the Church to ban the use of these instruments of sin.

The first public use of a fork is rumored to be by an 11th century Byzantine princess traveling in Venice. She used a dainty silver instrument with fork tines on one end and a small spoon on the other –a sucket fork, to eat the sticky sweet fruits offered at dessert, piercing the fruit with the tines then sipping the sauce with the small spoon end of the instrument. Use of the fork for enjoying sticky sweets and for holding meat in place as it is cut grew in popularity with the nobility of Italy. "It offered yet another opportunity for the upper classes to distinguish themselves from the peasantry." (Strong, 168)

Due to the effeminate manner in which it was used, and its dainty image, the fork became associated with ladies. In the painting, "The Story of Nastagio degli Onesti" by Sandro Botticelli in 1483, "the ladies at the left-hand table are using them for dessert." (Strong, 169) Though this artistic reference proved the existence of forks in the dining rituals of the nobility, references to them remained rare. "Not until 1563 do forks appear again [in art], this time in Veronese's great canvas of 'The Marriage at Cana'." (Strong, 170-171) In this rendering of an open-air wedding feast, at which Jesus and his mother Mary were guest, the artist included an image of a young woman, likely a courtesan, sucking seductively on her fork. This small inclusion in such a great image was scandalous, akin to placing the devil at the same dining table as Jesus.

By the late 17th century, the fork became more common on the great tables of Europe. They were produced in sets, matching the knives and spoons. "Silver provided a popular material for the handles, whether it was left plain, or decorated with brightly colored enamels. Ivory gave even greater scope for ornamentation, being intricately carved into the form of human figures, or geometrically faceted, while in its simplest shape its smooth surface could be inlaid with silver wire, and brightly stained in floral patterns in red and green." (Brears, 73-74)

Examples of these beautifully crafted pieces are plentiful in the "Feeding Desire…" exhibit. Some of the most striking included a fork and knife set from Germany produced in the 18th century with colorful beaded handles, a collection of pieces from 16th century Italy featuring handles of wood and ivory carved in human forms, and an art deco style traveling set with handles of green-colored and natural ivory diamond shapes set with fine wire, presented in a sharkskin, velvet lined carrying case.



References:

Brears, Peter. "Decoration of the Tudor and Stuart Table." In 'The Appetite and the Eye': Visual Aspects of Food and its Presentation within their Historic Context, ed. C. Anne Wilson, 56-97. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 1991.

Strong, Roy. Feast: A History of Grand Eating. London: Jonathan Cape, 2002, 162-189, 237-244.

Museum Exhibition: "Feeding Desire – Design and the Tools of the Table 1500 – 2005"
An exhibition at the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum, May 5 – October 29, 2006
Viewed: Saturday, June 4, 2006. For more information: Website: http://www.cooperhewitt.org/EXHIBITIONS/feeding_desire/index.asp last viewed Monday, June 5, 2006.

Website: image of "The Marriage at Cana" by Paulo Veronese http://www.artchive.com/artchive/V/veronese/marriage_cana.jpg.html last viewed Monday, June 05, 2006

Kokkari - San Francisco

Kokkari Estaitoria

200 Jackson Street (corner of Front Street)
In the Financial District
(415) 981-0983
www.Kokkari.com

Hours: Lunch Monday – Friday 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.
Bar menu from 2:30 – 5:30 p.m.
Dinner Monday – Thursday 5:30 p.m. until 10 p.m.,
Friday from 5:30 – 11 p.m. and Saturday from 5 – 11 p.m.
Closed Sunday

Cuisine: Greek

Details: Reservations recommended; private functions available.
Street parking can be difficult. Valet available after 5:30 p.m. for $8.00

Payment: All major credit cards

Price Range: Appetizers: $5.50 - $14.50
Entrees: $16.50 - $28


"Great doors," my friend commented as we approached the entrance to Kokkari Estaitoria. The rustic wood and glass door opened before I could raise my hand to reach for it – held for us by a handsome, gracious manager whose sincere greeting ushered us into the sumptuous, convivial dining area. Kokkari may be a large restaurant (approximately 150 seats), but the design conveys a sense of intimacy despite the bustling crowd of happy guests and amiable, efficient staff. The service philosophy at Kokkari is to treat customers as guests in their own home – a Mediterranean style of hospitality, and a goal that they have certainly succeeded in maintaining.

Mediterranean cuisine has been close to the heart of San Francisco foodies for decades; however, Greek food has typically been relegated to the realm of mom and pop-style diner/comfort food. At Kokkari, it assumes its rightful place in the kingdom of "cuisine." Even humble dishes like Moussaka and Avgolemono are raised to artful expressions of familiar favorites.

I recommend following the Mediterranean inspiration by ordering a selection of dishes to share "family style." There are so many lively, succulent, and rich dishes to sample that you be missing out if you limited yourself unnecessarily. Besides, with such an extensive array of Mezethes (small plates/appetizers), you will find it almost impossible not to order a few and nibble off each other's plates! My favorites are the assorted dips served with housemade grilled pita bread – particularly the Taramosalata (fish roe spread) and the Tzatziki; the Marithes Tiganites (crispy fried smelts), and the Arnisia Plevrakia (luscious little lamb riblets). Also, don't miss the melt-in-your-mouth tiny lamb sweetbreads that will soon find their way from the special list onto the dinner menu.

As you may have guessed (being a Greek restaurant), lamb is a house specialty – look no further than the whole lamb roasting on a spit in the cavernous fireplace in the center of the dining room. The lamb here is so scrumptious that you could easily eat your way from sweetbreads and riblets, to chops and braised shank without worry of monotony. Tempting, but don't miss out on the fabulous seafood dishes. Tender charcoal-grilled octopus is highlighted in two preparations – a light, tangy appetizer, and a refreshing salad with roasted peppers and frisée. Lemony whole Petrale sole is a must; that is, unless you go for the day's whole grilled fish selection.

The innovative dessert menu stays true to its Greek roots while maintaining the high standards Kokkari has set for itself. Yogurt sorbet came surrounded by fresh carrot granite made with carrots so naturally sweet that no sugar was added in its making. Rich, creamy housemade Greek yogurt came drizzled with aromatic Greek Attiki honey, served with spiced walnuts and tender dates; and the honey-nut cookies were the perfect accompaniment to the thick, strong Greek coffee.

Kokkari has a full bar with a great selection of ouzo, a Greek anise flavored liqueur. They also have a well-priced, diverse wine list featuring a wonderful selection of hard-to-find Greek wines. I found the Greek whites to be the perfect accompaniment to most of the dishes we tried, especially since lemon and fresh herbs play such a prominent role in many of them. The 2004 Domaine Tselepos "Mantinia," ($38) made from the Moschofilero grape has a bright lemony minerality softened with the essence of spiced peaches. For a more complex, Riesling-like wine, try the 2004 E. Tsantalis, Agioritikos, a blend of three Northern Greek grape varieties ($39).

Eat, Drink and be Fat and Drunk - Uncut Version

Eat, Drink and be Fat and Drunk!
LONG VERSION

April 27, 2006
Annette M. Tomei


"Eat, drink, and be fat and drunk!" This is the saying on a magnet that has been on my refrigerator since the 80's; it is also the battle cry of a group of girlfriends – including yours truly – who love to live life to their fullest.

One of these dear friends is getting married soon. We are grateful to her for providing the perfect excuse to gather in our old stomping grounds, food and wine heaven, the Napa Valley, for a "grown up" bachelorette party. The plan consisted of two of our favorite activities, eating too much and drinking too much of the best Napa has to offer (or at least our personal favorites).

The itinerary went roughly like this:

Thursday: Bride-To-Be (BTB) and I meet in Newark airport, proceed to Brooklyn Brewery kiosk, and drink a pint of Pennant Ale while flirting with non-English speaking hotties. Drink bad bottled margaritas with really bad airline food. Arrive in San Francisco 2 hours late (always happens when leaving Newark), find friend number 3 (KLM), proceed to her adorable abode and consume as much champagne as possible before passing out.

Friday: Wake very early, drink lots of good coffee, and hit the road. En route to Napa, realize that drinking first thing in the morning on an empty stomach may impede the progress of the day, we stop for baked goods – BTB opts for a healthy banana, KLM and I make strange gagging noises in disgust.

Winery number 1: Quintessa – a beautiful sanctuary where nature and great architecture come together to make exceptional wine. The staff, especially our guide Kelly, is gracious and charming, the 2002 vintage is ripe and velvety, and the nibbles that came with it (aged Gouda, "Humboldt Fog," and membrillo) were yummy – just wish there was more wine in that glass!

Lunch: The Wine Spectator at Greystone Restaurant – great patio with a fantastic view, lots of pink wines to choose from, a new lunch menu with a "world cuisine" flair – lots of popping flavors in small plate form and a burger stuffed with foie gras (decadent!), and hottie-chef Jimmy Corwell (a Fork Me, Spoon Me contributor).

Winery number 2: Pine Ridge Winery – former employer of both BTB and myself… it remains a personal favorite, now even more so since they've added a PINK wine (we LOVE pink wine). This is also a great place for a wine country cooking class with Eric, another hottie chef!

Day one continues with a couple of bottles of wine at the home of fabulous friends where I raided their personal citrus grove to smuggle some California gold (Meyer lemons) back to NYC.

Dinner: Foothill Café – We decided to go "local" for dinner… this little gem is hidden away in an old strip shopping center in a residential neighborhood, just the way we like it when we want to walk in with 5 people at 8:00 on a Friday with no reservations and cravings for really good food. Duck, prime rib, BBQ ribs, tuna – all excellent, and what do they do with the veggies to make them so perfect yet simple?

After this first day of excess, I slept the whole way back to the adorable abode and proceeded to sleep through the late night bubbles enjoyed by my friends (on the better side of 40 and can still party like rock stars!).

Saturday: We won't miss breakfast today! Our hostess made us homemade pancakes with fresh berries and some of the pilfered citrus (berry sweet blood oranges)… we are so spoiled! Since it's Saturday, we begin with a DVD of old Looney Toons. Several hours later, we are still in jammies on the couch getting over Day One.

A little shopping in the Laurel area of Oakland for obscure Asian and Latino food items gets the blood pumping. Once we're up and moving, we're ready to take on San Francisco for the Cherry Blossom Festival in Japan Town. If you're in this area, don't miss Ichiban Kan (the Japanese dollar store) at 22 Peace Plaza… if for no other reason than to buy a little gadget that cuts hot dogs into little octopi! Can't wait to make beany-weenies with all beef squid swimming on top! Lots of grazing today and big plans for dinner, so no lunch for us.

Dinner: Kokkari - Greek food has typically been relegated to the realm of mom and pop-style diner/comfort food; here, it assumes its rightful place in the kingdom of "cuisine." EVERYTHING (and we tried over 10 dishes) was to die for! Even Greek wine, particularly the whites, won my heart. Even better, they have good taste in staff – all the men are beautiful and they employ KLM.

Sunday: Though still reeling from the past two days, the battle cry could still be heard on the last day of our adventure. Fortunately, we stocked up on supplies for another stellar breakfast at home – challa French toast with more fresh fruit and Niman Ranch BACON (did I mention our obsession with pork products?).

Winery 1: Joseph Phelps – make your appointment well in advance (we recommend requesting the insanely fabulous princess from New York). For this extended tasting (3 hours on the terrace overlooking hills and vines), we were accompanied by our gypsy friend who recently returned to the valley from down south y'all. Good friends, a great view on a beautiful day, and Phelps Insignia… there is very little else one needs to prove that life is sweet.

All other plans for winery visits and shopping (for chocolate at Woodhouse and olive oil at the little place on Charter Oak) were waylaid for a decadent afternoon in the vineyard-side yard of old friends with their family's (French!) wine – Domaine des Girasols, a rich smoky, spicy, Cotes du Rhone Villages – so good and so hard to find (let me know if you're interested!).

Winery 2: Cardinale. OK, maybe there's time for one more short visit, especially since the sweetest, most charming, and adorable young man was rumored to be pouring (lucky us, he was!). Big, bold, high-scoring California cabs, luxurious surroundings, and a stunning view of my former domicile.

Dinner: Bistro Jeanty. A visit to Napa would be incomplete without at meal here. The quintessential bistro menu – everything is great, especially the simple things like tomato soup (under a veil of buttery puff pastry). After our first few courses, we were still able to add on our second round of braised short ribs (hence, running them out of their special for the evening!). For this special occasion, we were joined by none other than my Mom. Thanks Mom!

This is where the story ends. I, once again, passed out in the back seat of the car on the way home, and then was quickly shuttled to the airport to catch the redeye with only moments to spare. It took me three days to fully recover and I'm still full! Fortunately, I have no money left for groceries this week and only have Go Lean cereal in the house! Oh well, I needed a little diet anyway.

History of VinEducation

VinEducation began in Alta, Utah as Women Who Wine, a tasting group of women foodies, ski bums, and the wine deprived transplants to a place with beautiful snow and mountains, but archaic wine laws. Four years later, Women Who Wine moved to the Napa Valley (Mecca!). Now, nearly swimming in the elixir of life, we involved women winemakers, more chefs, viticulturalists... and then, Men! At first, we required them to wear skirts to enter a women's tasting group, but later opted for a name change!

As I pursued my interest in the professional world of wine, I decided that my focus would have to include food - my original passion and career focus, and would necessarily include an element of education since I am a consummate learner and almost professional student! Hence, VinEducation.

It is very important to me that VinEducation represents the best of my career, so far, and that it continues to evolve into something I want to represent me. The food I prepare reflects my classical training and background in 2-3 star restaurant kitchens as well as my Italian-American heritage. The wines I select are chosen for their intrinsic quality (not their "ratings") - I favor small production wines, hands-on vineyard management and winemaking techniques, and good value (this does not always mean inexpensive).

I like food, wine, and people with character and charisma. And, as important as anything else I've mentioned, I like to have fun while I'm doing this! Food and wine are the basis for conviviality. They are tools for enjoyment, to be understood and welcomed into everyday life - not to be over-analyzed and picked apart.

"The pleasures of eating and drinking operate on so many levels that hard and fast rules simply make no sense." - Oz Clark

Vin Santo

Since I have a predilection for dining in comfortable, neighborhood Italian restaurants, I've always associated Vin Santo with one of two things: first, a dessert menu side-dish of sorts that comes with my biscotti; second, an ingredient in the ubiquitous tirimisu (often replaced by rum by less "traditional" pastry chefs).

Several months ago, I was at a wine sale with a good friend (and great sommelier). There was well priced bottle of Lungarotti Vino Santo (1993) that I was curious about... I purchased it on her recommendation (a newer vintage is available online for $10.75 for a 375 ml - I paid about that for a 750 ml!). The bottle got packed away in the course of multiple moves, and forgotten. After a much-belated reading of an article from the New York Times Magazine on Vin Santo ("Case Study; Preserved in Amber" by Toby Cecchini - http://select.nytimes.com/gst/abstract.html?res=F50914FB3B5B0C758CDDA80994DD404482), I dug the bottle out of hiding.

Now, many months and a cross-country move later, I opened the bottle and am enjoying my first glass (finished my ever-present winter bottle of port last night). The delicate amber caramel color is enticing; the smell of vanilla bean, candied orange, and fruit cake is soothing and makes my mouth water just a bit. The texture is silky and slightly viscous. The flavor of candied orange zest prevails with hints of creme brulee and bitter almond; a slightly hot finish.

I may be a convert... a nice backbone of acidity to make this a bit less cloying than the last port I had. And, since it is an oxidized wine, it will be shelf-stable for a long time now that it's open... very important since I live alone and not looking to either become a bigger drunk than I am (just kidding) or to throw away a spoiled 3/4 bottle next week.

Fork Me, Spoon Me Event

VinEducation Presents

Fork Me, Spoon Me… an aphrodisiac food and wine pairing event for discerning singles – Featuring recipes from the newly released book by Master of Gastronomy, Amy Reiley.

Fork Me, Spoon Me: the sensual cookbook celebrates the power to ignite passion with your favorite sensual ingredients, including almonds, vanilla, rosemary, mint, chocolate, chile, ginger, mango, peaches, saffron and figs.

Please join us at VinoVino, the eclectic new Tribeca enoteca, for an evening of artisanal wines, aphrodisiac cuisine, and stimulating conversation with other sophisticated singles.

We will begin the evening with a bit of bubbly and a surprising sensual snack, then proceed through an evening of sexy tidbits prepared by Chef Annette Tomei paired with artisanal wines featured at VinoVino. All the while, you will have the opportunity to be introduced to other singles in a comfortable, stimulating environment. After the event, VinoVino's wine bar will remain open for mingling.

Event Date and Time:

Tuesday, February 21, 7:00 – 9:00 p.m.

Cost:

$70.00 per person

VinoVino
211 West Broadway
New York, New York 10013

Subways: 1 (Franklin Street), A,C,E (Canal Street)

Contact:

Annette@VinEducation.com or visit http://www.vineducation.com/

I'm Back... Live from New York!

First Dinner of the Rest of My Life:

November 3, 2005
6:07 p.m.


Over the past 11 years of living west of New York City, The worst thing I could say about any of my kitchens was that a couple had electric stoves. There were other things that made a few of them less than desirable – who I shared them with, the color of the appliances (avocado… yuk!), their lack of a view. Then there were a few that were exceptional – dream kitchens… lots of cupboards, windows, counter space, gas stoves, good company, and good memories. Now that I find myself back in Brooklyn, I’m reminded of why so many people in New York City opt for delivery!

I moved into my apartment about two weeks ago. It’s a great space – small but with good light, lots of character, and a view of the Empire State Building from my kitchen. Ah, my kitchen… fortunately, it’s open to the living room (a Brooklyn version of a “great room” concept) and not one of the claustrophobic galley-style kitchens that are designed for kitchen fairies, not diva chefs such as myself!

At first glance, my kitchen seems normal enough… it has all the basic necessities with the added bonus of two tall windows. On second glance, you may notice something is a little off. It’s as if someone shrunk everything – like a wool sweater that went through the wash. The cupboards are a size too small, the sink is petite, and the (gas) stove and refrigerator are precious miniature versions of normal appliances. My brand new, sexy, mid-life-crisis-worthy pots and pans dwarf the burners of my tiny stove and don’t come close to fitting into the Cornish game hen sized oven! To top it off, the ever-present bottles of Sauvignon Republic look like magnums in the vertically challenged refrigerator (making me look like a bigger lush than I really am!).

Since I moved in, I’ve been working almost every evening, eliminating the necessity to attempt cooking anything more adventurous than oatmeal in my new space. This week I’ve been off work to do some “nesting”… settling in for my first winter in six years (that’ll be another story). Being home from work has given me extra time to catch up with the autumn issues of the food magazines that have been piling up. Autumn is definitely my most inspired time for cooking… the colors, textures, and aromas of the seasonal foods, and the cool crisp weather that graciously permits the prolonged use of the stove and oven after the long, hot, unforgiving summer.

The urge to cook a hearty meal overcame me today along with a craving for the rich earthy flavors of the autumn harvest. A two-block walk to my neighborhood bodega landed me pumpkin-like kabocha squash, sweet-tart New York State apples, crisp braising greens, ruby red pomegranates, and hearty pearl barley. The mere presence of this much food on the counters posed the first challenge. Windowsills and the top of the petite refrigerator now serve double duty. Years of cooking in crowded restaurant kitchens, fortunately, prepared me for what ensued. The first step: mis en place (a French / restaurant term for getting everything in place). Working quickly and neatly is crucial to working in a small space (or any space for that matter). My grandmothers and every good chef I’ve worked with will also tell you “clean as you go!” With only one counter for a cutting board, vegetables went right from the sink onto the board and into small bowls; the squash went right into the oven. The barley got started on the back burner while the front burner got most of the action. This is where the sexy new cookware proved its worth. Since my favorite 12” All-Clad sauté pan dwarfs my stove, I enlisted my newest addition… a Viking 2-quart reduction saucepan. The seductively curved bottom of this hybrid saucepan not only provides an evenly heated surface for reducing the most delicate glace, it also provided just the right slope for sautéing my onions and apples within the confines of the Lilliputian stovetop. With a bit of shuffling of cutting board, knives, colander, hot baking pan, and salad spinner, the meal came together nicely. I even had time to enjoy the multi-colored lights of the Empire State Building glimmering over the rooftops of Brooklyn brownstones and the colorful treetops as my sweet onions and apples caramelized perfectly over the blue flame.

As I sat down to the first home-cooked dinner of the rest of my new life, (paired with a crisp, well-balanced Sauvignon Republic Russian River Sauvignon Blanc) I was satiated and very grateful for a fresh start.

The following recipe yields much more than one person can eat in a sitting. I froze several single serving portions to save me from more-frequent-than-necessary contortionist acts required in preparing multi-process meals in my little kitchen with a big view.


Roasted Winter Squash with Autumn Fruit Barley and Braised Greens

This hearty dish is a great vegetarian entrée or can be served as a side dish for carnivores (I recommend pork products). This yields 4-8 servings, depending on how you use it. I mixed the ingredients together, risotto-style, and froze portions for future meals (to use within 2 months).


1 medium winter squash (kabocha, butternut, acorn, etc.), halved or quartered, seeds removed
1-tablespoon olive oil
Salt and fresh-ground black pepper

¾-cup pearl barley
1 ½-cup water
1-teaspoon salt
½-cup raisins
1/3 cup Moosewood Hollow “Sweet Autumn” maple syrup (“infused with sweet spices and vanilla”) *

1 medium red onion, sliced thin
1 medium apple, sliced thin (peeled or not)
1-teaspoon olive oil
1-tablespoon butter
Salt and fresh-ground black pepper

1 bunch greens (chard, kale, mustard greens, spinach, etc.), cleaned, torn to pieces & dried
¼ cup white wine (in addition to the one you should be drinking at this time)
More salt and fresh-ground black pepper

1 pomegranate worth of seeds for garnish and snacking while you cook



Prepare the squash:
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Lightly oil a 13x9x2 baking pan.
Cut and clean the squash, rub with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place skin down in the baking pan. Add approximately ¼ inch of warm water to the pan.
Bake for 40-50 minutes or until squash is tender.

Prepare the barley:
Pour the barley grains onto a baking sheet to check for “foreign matter” (small pebbles and dirt lumps), then rinse the barley well.
Place in a 2 -quart saucepan with the water, salt and raisins.
Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for approximately 40 minutes.
When cooked through, stir in the maple syrup then season with salt and pepper to taste.

Prepare the Greens:
Heat olive oil and butter in a sauté pan (or sexy reduction saucepan!) until butter bubbles and melts. Add the apples, don’t move the pan until they begin to caramelize. Add the onions, sauté until tender and golden. Season with salt and pepper.

Reduce the heat to low, place the greens on top of the sautéed onions and apples, sprinkle with a bit of salt and pepper, add the wine and cover the pan until the greens begin to wilt. Stir gently and season to taste.

To serve:
As an entrée, place a piece of roasted squash on a plate. Top with greens and a scoop of the barley. Garnish with pomegranate seeds and a drizzle of the infused maple syrup around the plate.

For a more casual effect, scrape the squash from its shell into the barley mixture, fold in, and re-season. Serve the greens on the side or fold them in also.




* Moosewood Hollow of Plainfield, Vermont makes a number of flavorful, yummy, high quality infused maple syrups. For more information visit www.infusedmaple.com or call (802) 479-7999

After the Fancy Food Show

It's my first day home after my most recent trip to NYC... went to the Fancy Food Show in addition to having an amazing time with my family and friends. Tons of great food at home and at a few restaurants including Centrico... we decided we'd give it 2.5 stars. The room was sexy and cool, the cocktail service and the margaritas were stellar but the dinner service was unprofessional - get rid of the waiter who can't pronounce "calamari" and has no sense of timing. That said, the food was beautiful, fresh and good but needed heat, seasoning, sparkle! It's all there, it's a new restaurant with a first-class pedigree... once the chef lets his Latin palate express itself, the whole package will be hot, hot, hot!

I gave out a ton of my new business cards while I was out and about, now I better get that website up and running, Huh?! After the recipes for "Chile Aphrodisia" (Due out in April 2006!) are done, I'll get the website looking good and write more about all the beautiful food and wine in my life! Priorities... always difficult for me!

Too busy doing what I love?

SBC Yahoo! DSL
I have a website (www.vineducation or womenwhowineonline or gastronomad.com) that my web designer abandoned... Too busy doing what he loves.

As I sit her feeling a bit resentful about this... The fact that my future lies (a bit melodramatically) in a webspace frozen in time with the graphics I paid for nowhere to be seen and the photos I so lovingly prepared for poorly represented by the plainest one of the bunch (catching my breath), I realize that I could (should?) get in there and do it myself... Make it happen... Design the site of my dreams... Then I realize that aside from the fact that I know NOTHING about websites except how to surf them, I am also too busy doing what I love!

Somehow since I purchased the website and started this blog page, I became busy despite the lack of a flashy front... Just putting my focus on what I really wanted for my future, I created it (unwittingly, of course)! Careful what you wish for!

Current projects:

School - My final paper for the first semester of my MA in Gastronomy is due on Friday June 17... I'm deep in research but no words on the screen yet... Need to break this pattern! I intend to post the paper on my website someday, if I ever figure out how to do that!

Work - Gave my notice at my so-called-real job (apparently "Premier" translates as "we don't have to pay you what your worth"). Come July I will be forced to make my living from my own dazzling wit, mental fortitude, and well-honed skills. You've been warned!

Chef Stuff - Did a few fabulous dinners recently... Most recent was a 30th birthday party for a small group of revelers enjoying a most-perfect wine country evening, poolside at the "Maison de Joie" in the Napa Valley. Menu: HD's - Red Endive Spears with Apple Endive Slaw and Seared Shrimp, Wild Mushroom tartlets, and Little Black Bean Tostadas. First - Asparagus Spears wrapped with either Potato Ribbons or local Sole with citrus buerre blanc. Entree - Napa Grass Fed Beef Medallions (or roasted tomatoes & portobellos for the veggies) on mustard greens and scallion corn fritters with melted tiny tomatoes and fresh basil. Cheese course - Vella Dry Jack, Redwood's Camellia, and Pt. Reye's Blue with Marcona Almonds & local honey. Dessert - old school chocolate cake with chocolate frosting & fresh berries. Lots of wine paired to each course... too many to mention!

Home life? - Moving. Again. That says it all. Ah, yes... forgot the dog - skunk thing! Do not use the old tomato juice remedy!!!! Bad for the carpets if your little precious gets away from you accidentally! Best Bet: (another grocery store solution!) 1 bottle hydrogen peroxide, 1 small box baking soda, 2 squirts of Dawn (skunk is an oil and "Dawn takes grease out of your way!"). Much nicer on the carpeting. BTW... White vinegar and back-breaking patience gets tomato juice out of beige carpeting. Gotta love the food remedies!

Wine - Drinking lots of pink lately... York (Sonoma), Frog's Leap & Il Guffo (Napa), Mas Gran Plaginol (France? - can't look at bottle - already recycled)... Pink is a good thing!

Writing - Obviously not doing much on the blog lately. Just signed first cookbook contract with my dear friend Amy Reiley (www.lifeofreiliey.com) the Aphrodisiac Diva! LOTS More on that soon!

OK, speaking of writing... back to the school work... Academic writing doesn't come as easily as I expected it to.

Cheers!
Annette

Napa Life...

Living By the Vines: The Grafting of an East Coast Girl
to a Wine Country Life

The first thirty years of my life flowed to the rhythm of the seasons on the East Coast. The school year began with the first sign of cold air and coloring of the leaves. Thanksgiving and Christmas were sure to come soon after the first snow. Spring was the all-too-brief time when you shed your parka and breathed in fresh, cool, greenness. The sticky, steamy heat of summer meant long nights lit up by fireflies and carnival lights. Crisp apples and brightly colored leaves brought the end of vacation, the beginning of the next cycle of life.

For the past five years, I have lived in California – “Wine Country,” to be specific. At first, I enjoyed the break from bitter, frigid winters. Then I began to realize that years were slipping by in a barely perceptible pattern of rain-warm sun-hot sun-warm sun-rain, the poetry that Californians accept as seasons.

Without the grating of the snow plows, I tend to forget Christmas is coming until the outdoor shopping mall Santa startles me into the holiday spirit. During a particularly chilly bit of June, I might find it difficult to remember if it is spring or fall.

After a couple of years, I discovered my perception was changing. While walking my dog in the vineyards behind my home, I became acutely aware of the life of the vines. Seasons do not merely manifest themselves as weather, they have the wonderful ability to express themselves in the slightest, almost imperceptible, changes that make up the life-cycle of a grape vine.

For several months, the vineyard is a dead-looking forest of gnarled black stumps shooting boney, fingerlike, lifeless canes into the low grey sky. Then the rain comes, bringing a carpet of bright green to accentuate the blackness of the dormant vines.

The beginning of the year is the time for pruning the dead canes. This is also the time when I make my new year’s resolutions, start diets, and purge my home of unnecessary clutter. Both serve the same purpose; clear away the old to prepare for new growth.

Just when winter seems darkest, the mustard comes. Fields of bright yellow flowers overtake the sullen, stubbly vineyards, creating the illusion of summer sunshine in the wet fog of late winter. Each year it comes just in time to save me from the blahs that threaten to overtake me when the sun has been gone too long.

Days sometimes blur together under the gray flannel haze. It always surprises me the first time I realize that it’s starting to get light earlier and I don’t have to rush home from work to walk the dogs before it’s too dark in the vineyard. This is when I start looking for the tiny buds that will soon be forming on the stubbly canes.

After a long, seemingly dormant season of inner growth and strengthening root systems, miniature green buds form, growing rapidly into precious little leaves. Days are growing a bit longer, the sun visits more often, and I seem to have much more energy for long walks and new projects.

Once the new life force takes over, the new green canes grow inches overnight. It’s not long before the vineyard looks like a forest of brand new dwarf trees. This is a busy time of year in wine country. The weekend visitors from the city return. At first a few here and there, but soon they will line their cars up for miles down the road. The past few months of easy restaurant reservations and parking places on Main Street are just a distant memory. Life has returned to the valley.

Summer is just around the corner when the vines begin to flower. I never think of it as flowering, exactly. It looks more like Lilliputian bunches of green grapes. If I had children instead of dogs, I’d make up stories for them about vineyard gnomes dining on huge bunches of juicy grapes for dinner each night after the moon comes up. Since I do have dogs instead, I just let them chase away the birds before they make a feast of the next vintage.

Before spring has sprung, the sun often breathes its hot breath a bit too emphatically. The East Coaster in me wonder, “what ever happened to spring?” One day it’s freezing, the next it’s over 85°!

The leaves and fruit grow with abandon, basking in the hot sun during the day and the cooling fog at night. The vineyard is luxurious with rich, lush canopies covering succulent bunches of future wine. Life in the valley is also luxurious at this time of year. The rich and famous are in full view. Limousines form a train from one end of the valley to the next. Wine flows like water in the tasting rooms and restaurants. And, all the big, beautiful homes on the hillsides glow with the activity of entertaining.

Harvest brings a frantic buzz to the vineyard. There is no rest until every worthy bunch has been crushed and converted to bubbling tanks full of fermenting juice. Tourist season is at its peak. All wine lovers are fascinated with the magical process of turning simple fruit into the elixir of the gods. The energy level is contagious.

Like the vineyard, my life completes its yearly cycle. The time of stillness, reflection, and inner growth returns. Still… the outdoor shopping mall Santa sneaks up on me every time!

Wine Appreciation

A little something I wrote in 2003 that I thought I'd share...


Wine Appreciation: Sex or Stamp Collecting?

One of the best things about the academic study of food and wine is that you have final exams with questions like this! Granted, having an instructor with a great sense of humor, and an even greater passion for his subject matter, helps immensely.

Many were surprised when this question was met with indignant retorts from an unexpected number of stamp collectors in the group, quick to defend their often-maligned pastime.

Wine, like stamps, is often collected for investment as well as for hobby. We may envision a wine collector as a wealthy, older man in a smoking jacket visiting his precious collection in its dimly lit, cold, damp cellar – stacks of bottles covered in dust and cobwebs. This same person may also have a rare stamp collection kept in equally appropriate conditions and valued similarly, as an accomplishment – a conquest fulfilled.

Wine may deserve the esteem of the collector, but it is still, in the end, an agricultural product – food. To truly appreciate wine, it must be consumed. So, to answer the question… it’s definitely about sex.

Wine is pursued. It is painstakingly selected based on reputation, physical appearance (color, labeling, etc.), and its ability to enhance the sensual experience of the pursuer. The chosen wine is considered to have a direct reflection on the good taste and social status of the chooser. Many believe that showing up at a party with the wrong wine will ruin their reputation. There are numerous publications dedicated to helping the average person make informed choices about selecting the “right” wine.

Once selected, wine is handled with great care and reverence. The bottle is held, just so. It is gently laid on its side with great sensitivity to the temperature and lighting of the surroundings. When the right moment arrives for it to be opened, there is great ceremony in its presentation.

Wine requires special tools. True wine hedonists have definite opinions on the best type of opener to use. Most of them have a personal favorite that feels just right in their hand and makes the job of opening the bottle a simpler and more pleasurable experience.

The vessel from which the wine is consumed varies from functional to highly specialized, designed explicitly to enhance the sensual experience of enjoying specific types of wine. Some of the best are simple, unadorned lead crystal that allow the wine’s own vibrant color to shine. For those who need a little extra visual stimulation, there are wine glasses in a vast array of shapes, colors, sizes, and ornamented themes.

Part of what makes wine so sexy is the ritual of its consumption. It can’t, or at least shouldn’t be, rushed. Once the bottle is open and poured with a flourish into the preferred glassware, the sensual dance begins.

It all starts with a lingering glance, and maybe, if it’s a special wine, a reverential stare.

Breathe in. Consider the aroma; allow it to stimulate memories and fantasies. Aficionados may spend long, lusty moments here describing, in great detail, the developing complexity for the wines essence.

Finally, sip. At first you may approach the wine gently, even hesitantly. How does it make you feel? Describe the texture, the flavor, the sensation it leaves on your tongue. Relax; feel the tension slowly drain from your body. Take a moment to enjoy the convivial setting, the pleasure of sharing this experience with others. Different people will experience different sensations. Take this opportunity to discover more about those around you. Savor each moment.

When the bottle is spent and each glass has been emptied, the evening draws to a close. With a slightly heavy head and a light heart, sleep deeply and well. Reminisce about this encounter, dream about the next special bottle.

This is definitely not stamp collecting.

My First Time

At this point in my life, I need to reach a bit further outside my universe to get to say something like that!
As a food and wine diva/geek I can find my way around a kitchen or dining room with my eyes closed, so to speak (not recommended due to the high likelihood of running into sharp things, hot things, and fragile - potentially sharp things!)... I now venture into the world of the blogger, website owner, and cyber chef.

Women Who Wine was a group I started with some friends in a tiny town on a huge mountain in a place where wine was/is contraband. This was also a time when women were (surprisingly!) disregarded as "lovers of pink things" in the world of "serious wine".

Fortunately, from where I sit, perched high on a hill looking down on a kingdom built from wine, I see many women trailblazing to new heights and loving it... giving all new meaning to the phrase "Women Who Wine"!

So, as we all must evolve, learn, change, move on, etc...
The original concept of the original tasting group... a safe place for women to discuss a contraband substance in their own words with their own voices will now expand to include all wine-ers! Women, men, divas, home slices, gals, boyz, etc... No pretentious snobs please... this space is about passion, fun, playing with food and wine!

This blog is a place for me to write about the things I love, for public consumption.
I'll share food and wine pairings, menus & recipes, tasting notes, wine country travel tips, restaurant reviews, what I'm doing in my Master of Gastronomy program, contact information for people and companies that I like, and a few unsolicited opinions on things I don't like (all's fair)... I hope you will share the same!

Cheers!
Annette

wing animation&design :: animation : multimedia : web : audio :: info@winganimation.com

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