Vin Santo

Since I have a predilection for dining in comfortable, neighborhood Italian restaurants, I've always associated Vin Santo with one of two things: first, a dessert menu side-dish of sorts that comes with my biscotti; second, an ingredient in the ubiquitous tirimisu (often replaced by rum by less "traditional" pastry chefs).

Several months ago, I was at a wine sale with a good friend (and great sommelier). There was well priced bottle of Lungarotti Vino Santo (1993) that I was curious about... I purchased it on her recommendation (a newer vintage is available online for $10.75 for a 375 ml - I paid about that for a 750 ml!). The bottle got packed away in the course of multiple moves, and forgotten. After a much-belated reading of an article from the New York Times Magazine on Vin Santo ("Case Study; Preserved in Amber" by Toby Cecchini - http://select.nytimes.com/gst/abstract.html?res=F50914FB3B5B0C758CDDA80994DD404482), I dug the bottle out of hiding.

Now, many months and a cross-country move later, I opened the bottle and am enjoying my first glass (finished my ever-present winter bottle of port last night). The delicate amber caramel color is enticing; the smell of vanilla bean, candied orange, and fruit cake is soothing and makes my mouth water just a bit. The texture is silky and slightly viscous. The flavor of candied orange zest prevails with hints of creme brulee and bitter almond; a slightly hot finish.

I may be a convert... a nice backbone of acidity to make this a bit less cloying than the last port I had. And, since it is an oxidized wine, it will be shelf-stable for a long time now that it's open... very important since I live alone and not looking to either become a bigger drunk than I am (just kidding) or to throw away a spoiled 3/4 bottle next week.