Kokkari - San Francisco

Kokkari Estaitoria

200 Jackson Street (corner of Front Street)
In the Financial District
(415) 981-0983
www.Kokkari.com

Hours: Lunch Monday – Friday 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.
Bar menu from 2:30 – 5:30 p.m.
Dinner Monday – Thursday 5:30 p.m. until 10 p.m.,
Friday from 5:30 – 11 p.m. and Saturday from 5 – 11 p.m.
Closed Sunday

Cuisine: Greek

Details: Reservations recommended; private functions available.
Street parking can be difficult. Valet available after 5:30 p.m. for $8.00

Payment: All major credit cards

Price Range: Appetizers: $5.50 - $14.50
Entrees: $16.50 - $28


"Great doors," my friend commented as we approached the entrance to Kokkari Estaitoria. The rustic wood and glass door opened before I could raise my hand to reach for it – held for us by a handsome, gracious manager whose sincere greeting ushered us into the sumptuous, convivial dining area. Kokkari may be a large restaurant (approximately 150 seats), but the design conveys a sense of intimacy despite the bustling crowd of happy guests and amiable, efficient staff. The service philosophy at Kokkari is to treat customers as guests in their own home – a Mediterranean style of hospitality, and a goal that they have certainly succeeded in maintaining.

Mediterranean cuisine has been close to the heart of San Francisco foodies for decades; however, Greek food has typically been relegated to the realm of mom and pop-style diner/comfort food. At Kokkari, it assumes its rightful place in the kingdom of "cuisine." Even humble dishes like Moussaka and Avgolemono are raised to artful expressions of familiar favorites.

I recommend following the Mediterranean inspiration by ordering a selection of dishes to share "family style." There are so many lively, succulent, and rich dishes to sample that you be missing out if you limited yourself unnecessarily. Besides, with such an extensive array of Mezethes (small plates/appetizers), you will find it almost impossible not to order a few and nibble off each other's plates! My favorites are the assorted dips served with housemade grilled pita bread – particularly the Taramosalata (fish roe spread) and the Tzatziki; the Marithes Tiganites (crispy fried smelts), and the Arnisia Plevrakia (luscious little lamb riblets). Also, don't miss the melt-in-your-mouth tiny lamb sweetbreads that will soon find their way from the special list onto the dinner menu.

As you may have guessed (being a Greek restaurant), lamb is a house specialty – look no further than the whole lamb roasting on a spit in the cavernous fireplace in the center of the dining room. The lamb here is so scrumptious that you could easily eat your way from sweetbreads and riblets, to chops and braised shank without worry of monotony. Tempting, but don't miss out on the fabulous seafood dishes. Tender charcoal-grilled octopus is highlighted in two preparations – a light, tangy appetizer, and a refreshing salad with roasted peppers and frisée. Lemony whole Petrale sole is a must; that is, unless you go for the day's whole grilled fish selection.

The innovative dessert menu stays true to its Greek roots while maintaining the high standards Kokkari has set for itself. Yogurt sorbet came surrounded by fresh carrot granite made with carrots so naturally sweet that no sugar was added in its making. Rich, creamy housemade Greek yogurt came drizzled with aromatic Greek Attiki honey, served with spiced walnuts and tender dates; and the honey-nut cookies were the perfect accompaniment to the thick, strong Greek coffee.

Kokkari has a full bar with a great selection of ouzo, a Greek anise flavored liqueur. They also have a well-priced, diverse wine list featuring a wonderful selection of hard-to-find Greek wines. I found the Greek whites to be the perfect accompaniment to most of the dishes we tried, especially since lemon and fresh herbs play such a prominent role in many of them. The 2004 Domaine Tselepos "Mantinia," ($38) made from the Moschofilero grape has a bright lemony minerality softened with the essence of spiced peaches. For a more complex, Riesling-like wine, try the 2004 E. Tsantalis, Agioritikos, a blend of three Northern Greek grape varieties ($39).